A good alteration is the difference between a jacket that fits and one that merely covers you. Esmail Astanboos has spent decades cutting and fitting garments by hand, and the same eye that goes into a bespoke commission goes into altering something you already own. We work on suits, shirts, trousers and jackets for clients across San Francisco and the wider Bay Area, and we will always tell you honestly what a garment can and cannot be made to do.
Most of the alteration work we do is on clothing bought somewhere else. Off-the-rack suits are cut to an average body, and almost nobody is actually average — sleeves run long, shoulders sit wide, the waist has no shape. Bringing in a jacket you already like and having it fitted properly is usually the single cheapest way to improve how your whole wardrobe looks. You do not need to have bought it from us, and we will not try to sell you a bespoke commission instead.
The alterations that change a suit most are the ones people ask for least: shoulder adjustment, sleeve pitch, and taking shape into the waist. Hemming trousers is simple and everyone knows to ask for it. Getting a jacket to sit clean across the back and close properly at the button is the work that actually makes it look like it was made for you, and it is well within what a good tailor can do to a ready-made suit.
Dress shirts are the most commonly badly-fitted garment men own, because sizing is based on collar and sleeve and ignores everything in between. We slim the body, adjust sleeve length, reshape the shoulder, and replace or restyle collars and cuffs. If you have a stack of shirts that fit at the neck and balloon everywhere else, that is a straightforward and inexpensive fix.